sake Regionality
Sake has evolved through the ages and travelled across the globe, yet remains synonymous with the culture, traditions and landscape of Japan. Oceans, mountains, forest and rivers shape the islands and topography of the country that dominates production of this magical beverage.
Similar to the nebulous (and keenly debated) concept of terroir in wine, sake has its own unique relationship with its regional origins. Local geography, ingredients and production methods can all greatly influence the end product and some locations are inherently well-suited to the task. While sake-making is still found in all corners of Japan, over the centuries brewing skills and production has also clustered in certain regions, creating regional styles and characteristics. This is evidenced by the fact some prefectures now even have geographical indication (GI) recognition, similar to Champagne.
Here we take you on a journey through what regionality means in the context of sake and differences between the major sake producing regions of Japan.
AROUND 80% of sake is made up of water
What Gives SAke REgionality?
Water
80% of sake is made up of water and Japan is blessed to have some of the highest quality water in the world. Much of the country’s water is soft and this softness depends on how many minerals are picked up through soil and underground rock formations.
When it comes to the profile of sake in different regions, soft and hard water makes a difference. Hyogo Prefecture is known for having hard water, which is rich in calcium and magnesium and produces an active fermentation. The result is a robust, masculine style of sake called otozake.
On the other hand, Kyoto is known for having soft water, which contains low amounts of calcium and magnesium, producing a slower fermentation. This creates lighter, feminine sake referred to as onnazake.
That’s not to say that these are the only styles produced in those specific regions. There are countless styles being made by breweries every day and half of all Japan’s sake is made in Kyoto and Hyogo Prefecture.
Sake rice is used far beyond the region in which it’s grown
Rice
Rice is one of the key ingredients in the sake-making process and there are many varietals suited for different purposes and climates. Historically, breweries were limited to sake rice that was grown locally which gave each variety an association with a particular region or town. As technology improved and costs came down these barriers began to disappear. Today, brewers can pick and choose the rice varietals based on the the profile of sake they hope to create and tend to be more focused on the overall quality of the rice rather than its provenance. As such, in modern sake production, rice is transported far beyond the region in which it was grown (including being exported outside of Japan) and therefore the link between rice and region tastes of sake has diminished.
It is still worth noting the origins of such a key ingredient, and of the hundreds of rice strains, the three most popular varietals that are used in sake-making tend to be Yamada Nishiki primarily from Hyogo Prefecture, Gohyakumangoku from Niigata and Miyama Nishiki from Akita.
Like all things in sake, there are exceptions and simply because one region tends to use a specific type of sake rice, doesn’t mean that variety isn’t necessarily suitable to be grown in another area. For example, Hyogo Prefecture grows both Yamada Nishiki and Gohyakumangoku.
Today, in a bid to differentiate their sake and support marketing efforts, some breweries have made a significantly invested in returning to using “local” rice. A few will highlight the fields adjacent to the brewery or in the local community in which they reside, something that other breweries can’t replicate.
ENVIRONMENT
The environment and landscape in which sake ingredients emerge or breweries are located has both a direct and indirect influence on the end sake.
Mountains
Mountains make up 75% of Japan’s topography, traversing prefectures and for centuries impacting local culture, agriculture, cuisine and identity. In the context of sake-making, mountains have a direct effect on climate and in turn the quality of the all essential water.
During Winter, cold air comes in from across Siberia, picking up moisture while it passes over the Sea of Japan. It then rises over the mountains, bringing snow. In spring, meltwater from the snow transfers to rivers and lakes, culminating in the water that is used throughout the sake brewing process for many breweries.
Coasts
Many of Japan’s prefectures are located on coastlines, providing access to an abundance of seafood, natural water sources and environmental forces that help to shape local sake and its surrounding culture. This may involve breweries developing sake to complement a specific fish caught in a region or utilising the abundance of local natural ingredients.
For example, the Tosatsuru brewery in Kochi Prefecture using deep sea water from the local area to produce Azure ginjo.
Climate
Japan’s distinct seasons and wide ranging North-South climate - ranging from subarctic in the north to subtropical in the south - has it’s own subtle impact on the flavour and style of sake produced.
Sake rice is particularly vulnerable to extreme weather, even more so than regular table rice. Rice varieties used for sake brewing tend to be taller, with older varieties like Omachi reaching 150 cm. Yamada Nishiki still grows to about 120–130 cm and and the top-heavy plants are prone to falling over. Such long stalks are easily damaged by high winds or heavy rain (source)..
For those breweries that choose to utilise local rice to create an appealing point of differentiation in their sake, these climate factors will (as they once did in the pre-war years) effect which varieties they can confidently grow and use for brewing.
Guilds
The human factor in sake-making can’t be overlooked and that is personified by the toji (master brewer) and the guilds in which they have traditionally built community. Toji oversee the entire sake-making process, controlling everything, which includes yeast strain, koji type, moto (sake starter mash) and more.
There are several toji guilds throughout Japan, each building on and advocating for different sake-brewing techniques. The three main guilds to be aware of are the Tanba Guild in Hyogo, the Echigo guild in Niigata and the Nabu guild in Iwate.
The techniques from all three of these guilds are distinctive, shaping the sake of the local region. For example, the Echigo guild have helped to develop the tanrei karakuchi style in Niigata, while the Tanba guild have perfected the masculine otozake of Hyogo.
Top Sake Regions
Yamagata Prefecture
Fast Facts:
One of Japan’s most famous ginjo sake production regions
Home to the Yamagata sake GI and was the first region to be designated with a GI
The base of the Yamagata Brewing Research Society
Overview
A remote, snowy region on the coast of Japan, Yamagata has a reputation for being one of the most forward-thinking prefectures in the country. This is evident from the way Yamagata breweries shifted towards making premium ginjo and daiginjo sake in the 1970s, culminating in the accreditation of the first sake GI in 2016.
Many famous breweries operate throughout the region, including Dewazakura, Kudoki Jozu, Yamagata Masamune and more.
Climate: Hot summers and snowy winters
Water: Soft water
Sake styles: Light, clean, crisp and textured
Local food pairing with sake: Soy sauce marinated yonezawa beef with lotus roots. Yonezawa beef is one of the three most famous beef brands in Japan alongside Kobe and Matsusaka.
Hyogo Prefecture
Fast Facts:
Hyogo Prefecture
The largest region of sake production in Japan
Home to the legendary miyamizu hard water
The birthplace of Yamada Nishiki rice
Has the sake GI of Nada-gogo and Harima
Overview
As the region with the most active amount of sake production, Hyogo Prefecture is famous for the Nada-gogo (five villages of Nada) area that features some of Japan’s biggest breweries, including Ozeki, Shirakabegura, Kenbishi and Hakutsuru.
Climate: Wet and snowy in the north and dry in the south
Water: Miyamizu hard water
Sake styles: robust, masculine otozake
Local food pairing with sake: Akashiyaki, a type of egg-rich batter octopus ball with a plenty of umami.
Kyoto Prefecture
Kyoto Prefecture
Fast Facts:
The old capital of Japan (between 794 – 1869)
The second biggest region of sake production
Famous for soft gokosui water in Fushimi
Overview
Kyoto Prefecture is well-known for having an abundance of soft water that many of the breweries use to create phenomenal sake. There’s a wonderful culture of creativity among the breweries of Kyoto, with brands like Gekkeikan and Tamanohikari leading the charge.
Climate: Warm summers and cold winters
Water: Soft gokosui water
Sake styles: Delicate, aromatic, feminine onnazake
Local food pairing with sake: Pressed mackerel sushi topped with kombu.
Niigata Prefecture
Niigata Prefecture
Fast Facts:
· Third largest sake producer in Japan
· Has the highest number of sake breweries
· The birthplace of Gohyakumangoku rice
· A pioneer of the ginjo sake boom between 1986 – 1991
Overview
Niigata Prefecture holds a special place in the annals of sake history for a number of reasons.
With the highest amount of sake breweries in Japan, innovation has always been a big part of the local culture, particularly with the move towards premium ginjo sake in the late 1980s and the distinctive style of tanrei karakuchi.
Climate: Rainy throughout the year and cold winters
Water: Soft, clean water
Sake styles: Tanrei karakuchi – dry, light sake with a clean finish
Local food pairing with sake: Sushi with kanzuri chili paste. The paste is made from red peppers, laid on snow to remove any bitter flavours and then minced with yuzu for a mixture of sweet and spicy flavours.
Akita Prefecture
Fast Facts:
Achieved most number of gold medals at the National New Sake Contest
Famous for the Akita-style kimoto sake production method
Originator of No. 6 yeast strain
Overview
A snowy kingdom of sake innovation, Akita is a place of experimentation and exceptional production. The sake styles of the region are varied, with each brewery having their own unique thing to say and an interesting fact is that the No.6 yeast strain was developed in the area to create a more robust fermentation.
Climate: Hot summers and cold winters
Water: Soft water
Sake styles: A lot of variation with mellow umami notes and soft textures
Local food pairing with sake: Iburigakko (pickled daikon radish)
Hiroshima Prefecture
Fast Facts:
Originator of the soft water fermentation method
Set the foundation for modern ginjo sake
Home to Saijo Sake Festival – The biggest sake festival in Japan
Overview
A land of temperature extremes, Hiroshima is known for being the originator of the soft water fermentation method through the work of a brewer called Senzaburou Miura who was active during the 1870s.
This method became the blueprint for what ginjo sake would become and breweries such as Miyake Honten, Fuji Shuzo and Kamotsuru continue to keep the traditions of Hiroshima alive today.
Climate: Warm and dry throughout the year. Cold in mountainous areas and prone to typhoons
Water: Super-soft water
Sake styles: Various styles with soft, briny characteristics
Local food pairing with sake: Bishu nabe (Japanese hotpot made with sake, meat and vegetables)
Ishikawa Prefecture
Fast Facts:
Has the sake GI of Hakusan
Known for producing a high volume of yamahai sake
Famous for Wajima lacquerware
Overview
Ishikawa Prefecture is a land of snow, thunder and brilliant sake, with a distinctive GI relating to Hakusan City. The sake made in the region tends to have rich, umami notes due to the influence of the local Noto toji guild.
Another bit of fun trivia about Ishikawa sake is that the 16th-century lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who united Japan was fond of sake brewed in the southern part of the region.
Climate: Temperate with snow and storms in northern areas
Water: Soft to semi-hard
Sake styles: Deep umami and cereal notes with high acidity and a sweet finish
Local food pairing with sake: Kabura sushi. This is a type of sushi that’s wrapped in salted kabu (turnips) which have been pickled with koji.
Saga Prefecture
Fast Facts:
One of the few rice farming lands in Kyushu region
Known for producing high-quality shochu
A leader in Japanese pottery styles Arita & Karatsu
Overview
Located on the far western side of Japan, Saga Prefecture has a warm and mild climate and the region is made up of flat plains and mountains such as Tenzan and Taradake. The sake of the region has been influenced by this warmer climate, being juicy, sweet and balanced.
Climate: Warm and mild
Water: Soft to semi-hard
Sake styles: Juicy and vicious with balanced acidity
Local food pairing with sake: Yobuko squid that has crunchy characteristics and pairs well with a sweeter type of sake.
Next: Types of Sake Rice