Rice, being a starchy cereal grain, needs something to break up that starch into fermentable sugars before it can be converted into alcohol. Unlike beer, where the grain is malted, a starch-digesting mould is grown on around one quarter of the total polished sake rice, by carefully sprinkling spores of the mould over steamed, cooled rice and carefully controlling the temperature thereafter. The resulting mouldy rice is called koji.
Taking place over two days, the art of manually developing the koji is one of the most delicate, intensive and captivating stages of the entire sake-making process. Some brewery workers are not allowed to touch the koji for many years, until they are deemed skillful enough by the Toji (head brewer)
Koji is also a key ingredient in other popular Japanese foods such as Mirin, Miso and Soy sauce!